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About the author:
Farrell Monaco is an award-winning Classical archaeologist and food-writer whose research centers on food, food preparation, and bread in the Roman Mediterranean. She writes regularly on the role of food and food preparation in Roman daily life on her site, Tavola Mediterranea, and publishes in both English and Italian. Farrell has also written exclusively for Atlas Obscura and BBC Travel. Her work has been featured prominently by National Geographic, Popular Science, The Atlantic, the BBC, The Guardian, The Telegraph, The Economist, Esquire Magazine, SAPIENS Magazine, Saveur Magazine and Milk Street.
May 23
It was a real pleasure to finally meet Paolo Giulierini in person yesterday at Università Federico II – Reggia di Portici. As former director of the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli (MANN) and now Director of the MAEC Cortona, Paolo was the person who originally authorized my research permit several years ago to study the extraordinary carbonised breads held in the MANN laboratories.
That opportunity became an important part of my ongoing work on Roman bread and food archaeology, so it was especially meaningful to meet face to face after all these years. A wonderful moment of connection, conversation, and shared passion for the ancient Mediterranean at the beautiful Reggia di Portici. 🙏
#Napoli #Pane #Museo #Università #cultura
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May 22
Today, Raffaele and I had the privilege of visiting the magnificent Università degli Studi di Napoli Federico II campus at the historic Reggia di Portici in Ercolano, where we warmly accompanied by Professors Mariangela Bianco and Marco Bottigliero. They guided us through the Department of Mediterranean Gastronomic Sciences, introducing us to the extraordinary projects currently underway by the students: work that beautifully bridges food, science, history, sustainability, and culture. We also visited the library, whose atmosphere and scent of old books nearly made my knees buckle… one of those rare spaces where scholarship feels almost sacred. 😍
The Federico II program in Scienze Gastronomiche Mediterranee is especially known for its interdisciplinary approach to food studies, combining agricultural science, food technology, history, communication, nutrition, and Mediterranean culinary heritage within one of the most historically significant academic settings in southern Italy. Housed within the Bourbon-era Reggia di Portici, the program reflects a remarkable union of historical legacy and forward-thinking research into the future of food cultivation and culture.
Thank you for an incredible day, Marco and Mariangela!
#Ercolano #federicoii #gastronomy #food #italy
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May 21
A heartfelt thank you to Kendall Vanderslice for welcoming me into the final days of her Eucharist Pilgrimage through Greece and Rome! I joined the group in Orvieto yesterday at the beautiful Altarocca Wine Resort, where I had the pleasure of presenting on the relationship between Roman breads and sacrificial cakes and the earliest forms of Eucharistic bread forms. It was such a joy to finally spend time with Kendall and hear more about her incredible and groundbreaking work, and Katie of Life Beyond The Room, whose warmth and generosity made the experience all the more memorable.
What stayed with me most was the reminder that women coming together to support one another is only half the gift. The other half is learning from one another, sharing knowledge and experience freely, and celebrating the fullness of who we are: as writers, makers, bakers, and human beings. Grateful for the conversations, the hospitality, and the sense of community that emerged around the table!
#bread #baking #eucharist #italy #women
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May 21
I love Italy for many reasons. One of them is that Italians still read. They love books. There are bookshelves in every apartment and bookstores on every corner, with teetering piles of books on every weird and wonderful topic known to man. And these bookstores never shut down or disappear because Italians still buy books and read them. Phones down, books up. 💪 Lead the way, Italy. Lead the way! 📚 ❤️
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#books #reading #bookstore #phones #nophones
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May 17
FAO visit afterthought: Emma and Simona are elegantly normal-height humans. And then there’s me. 😂 Guess which one of us will NEVER be getting a call from the Rockettes? (Hint: it’s the one blocking the signage.)🦒🤣
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#tallgirlproblems #FAO #rockettes
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May 17
This week I had the privilege of visiting FAO MuNe in Rome, guided by the wonderful Emma Gilardi and Simona Vani. MuNe is FAO’s new museum of nutrition and food culture, and it’s incredible!
Accessible, visually stunning, and genuinely thought-provoking… I’m still thinking about the Uzbek tandyr oven and the Romanesque agricultural calendar days later. 😍
If you’re in Rome, put this on your list. Huge congratulations to everyone who brought it to life! 🙌
#FAO #UN #Rome #Food #Museum
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May 14
Nothing like having a big old cry in the middle of the Vatican Museums. This week I finally came across something I hadn’t yet seen in person: a sculpture fragment from a 3rd century sarcophagus discovered on the Appia Antica, depicting the interior of a Roman bakery, and crucially, the horses labouring within it.
It immediately brought to mind the chapter in Apuleius’ The Golden Ass where Lucius, transformed into a donkey, is put to work in a bakery. The passage has always struck me for its dual perspective: Lucius describes both his own experience at the mill and the poor conditions of the enslaved people working alongside him. I’ve always read it as Apuleius quietly asking the reader to reckon with cruelty, whether toward animals or humans.
Standing in front of such beautifully sculpted evidence of that world makes the text feel very immediate. Maybe Apuleius also stopped to talk to the horses in the street. I like to think he did.
(Translation of The Golden Asse: Adlington (1566)).
#Roman #Bakery #Horses #literature #Archaeology
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May 10
A walk along the Tiber river in Rome doesn’t just burn off last night’s amatriciana, it reveals some of the river’s grain milling history and archaeology of bread production… right on the footpath! Along the river beneath Ponte Sublicio, a few reminders still survive of one of Rome’s oldest industries: grain milling. Floating mills operated on the river from at least the 6th century AD, when the general Belisarius famously turned to the Tiber for water power after Rome’s aqueducts were cut during the Gothic siege of 537 AD. For centuries afterward, the riverbanks were lined with mills that ground grain into flour for the city’s daily bread supply. The large basalt millstones resting today beside the footpath are likely later examples, probably dating between the 18th and 19th centuries, when dozens of floating mills still worked the river before the great embankment walls transformed the Tiber in the late 1800s. Worn by water, grain, and time, these millstones tell the story of the labour that once fed Rome its daily bread. 😍
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#Rome #Bread #Engineering #Archaeology #Food
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May 9
When in Naples… 😋
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#pastry #naples #napoli #pasticceria #foodgasm
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